1) Waves created by wind, wind forms ripples which turns into wavelets and finally waves
2) Fetch is the distance wind travels over the ocean to form a wave
3) Waves in open ocean have a gradual slope making them suitable for body surfing where as waves closer into the shore hit the shallow sand banks which slows down the base of the wave and forms tubes for surfers to tube through.
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6) Plunging waves break on moderately sloped waves, spilling waves break far from beach on a gentle slope making ideal for body surfing and surging waves - very steep beaches cause erosion
7) Wind Swell waves travel short distance before hitting land and ground swell is that waves travel longer distance before hitting waves.
1) The settlement of the Australian population is mainly along the coastline which has impacts on the environment around it. Animals who breed in certain areas can no longer do so as urbanisation has occurred. Pollution of the water has meant some animals die.
2) Coastal Management strategies are important in the development of the coastline as it inputs restrictions to development along the coast. It may involve that you can't build anything with 50 meters of the sand or involve no development at all allowing the natural occurring cycles to continue unharmed.
3) 'Sea Change' refers to the transition of city people moving to the coast for a relaxed lifestyle
4) One government response to sea change has involved a population cap on how many people are allowed to build or develop in a coastal region.
5) Pollution has affected the coastal environment. By having storm waters drains which empty into the ocean they often carry with them rubbish and unnecessary minerals which pollute the water.
Population Growth has affected the coastal environment by the population becoming more and more built near the coastline. This has resulted in some natural cycles being disturbed.
Introduced Plants affects the coastal environment as they can choke, hold or kill off native wildlife or choke native plants.
Tourism and Recreational Pressures have affected the coastal environment. By having interesting and fun actives near the coast it does provide a profit for the community however they impact the local enviroment. AN activity such as Four Wheel Driving creates pressure on the local community however if not managed
6) Geographers collect data which is essential to creating management plans. Secondly, geographers understand the local environment and know what is supposed to be there and what is not to be there.
The Banzai Pipeline or commonly called "Pipeline", is a surf reef break located in Hawaii, off Ehukai Beach Park in Pupukea on O'ahu's North Shore. A reef break is an area in the ocean where waves start to break once they reach the shallows of a reef. Pipeline is notorious for huge waves which break in shallow water just above a sharp and cavernous reef, forming large, hollow, thick curls of water that surfers can tube ride. There are three reefs at Pipeline in progressively deeper water further out to sea that activate according to the increasing size of approaching ocean swells. The best times to see or surf Pipeline at its best is December through March, this is when the waves are at their biggest and best.
Specifics of the wave break:
The reef at 'Pipeline' is a flat table top reef, with several ditches on the inside, creating a giant air bubble that pops on the front of the wave when the wave rises upwards just before breaking. There are also several miniature lava mountains that can injure fallen surfers. Sand can build on the reef at Pipeline and that can cause waves to "close out" (meaning the barrel of the wave collapses all at once and makes the wave impossible to surf). A strong swell from the west clears out the sand in the reef, and after that, a strong north swell can give rise to the best waves.
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